Timepieces manufactured in the canton of Geneva have their own certification: the Poinçon de Genève, a physical mark that aims to distinguish local manufacturers as well as watches meeting satisfaction criteria regarding their craftsmanship and reliability. Established in 1886, this Poinçon is emblematic of a desire found in most Swiss labels and certifications: to validate the superior manufacturing quality of a timepiece and guarantee the rarity of excellent craftsmanship.
1886, the Year the Poinçon De Genève Was Established
It was in Switzerland, particularly in the canton of Geneva and its surroundings, that modern watchmaking history began to flourish between the 18th and 19th centuries. At the time, the name of the municipality, engraved on the movements of locally manufactured watches, served as a kind of label guaranteeing the origin and quality of the piece.
However, because the history of technical successes is also, too often, one of counterfeiting and abusive exploitation, the name of Geneva was quickly diverted from its intended use to mark timepieces of varying quality (generally mediocre), produced in other regions by unscrupulous manufacturers. Other brands did not hesitate to appropriate the cantonal label to attract customers through advertisements in Swiss newspapers.
This is how the notion of “controlled origin” emerged, applied to timepieces. In 1886, to guarantee the validity of the expertise of Genevan watchmaking houses, the Société des Horlogers de Genève, founded less than ten years earlier (in 1878), and the State Council, proposed a bill aimed at defining the scope of certification for watches produced in the municipality: this law is known as the “Optional Control of Geneva Watches – Poinçon de Genève”.
Thus, the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva established a Watch Control Office, whose role is to affix a seal – the official state hallmark – on watches that have passed rigorous controls. However, the primary criterion among all remains this: that the manufacturers submitting their timepieces to the Office’s scrutiny must themselves reside in Geneva. A sine qua non condition whose objective is to preserve valuable expertise within the territory, at a time when many houses chose to establish themselves abroad.
Eligibility Criteria for the Poinçon De Genève
Only brands that manufacture their timepieces in the canton therefore have the possibility to apply for the Poinçon de Genève – but no watchmaking house is obliged to submit to it. This is because access to this watchmaking Grail is restricted. Firstly, because the certification is complex, established according to criteria concerning:
- The movement
- Functionality
- The case
- Precision
- Reliability
- Water resistance
- Power reserve
- Technical specifications
It should be noted that these criteria were adopted by the Poinçon Technical Commission in 2011, on the occasion of the label’s 125th anniversary. Some of these criteria apply to the finished watch and take into account the technical advancements of the watchmaking industry. The official Poinçon de Genève website will tell you more.
Secondly, because this certification is not free, and its high cost is not justified for all brands. Indeed, obtaining a label like the Poinçon de Genève allows a product to be distinguished from mass production, as an honorary title. However, the general public is not necessarily well-equipped to understand the value of this mark, and not always willing to pay a higher price under this pretext. For watchmaking houses, it is therefore above all a strategic choice.
The Poinçon De Genève, a Particularly Rare Watchmaking Grail
The brands that benefit from the Poinçon de Genève – whether for all or a fraction of their movements – can be counted on the fingers of two hands. Here they are:
- Ateliers DeMonaco
- Cartier
- Chopard
- Louis Vuitton
- Patek Philippe
- Roger Dubuis
- Vacheron Constantin
In 2016, the Louis Vuitton brand was the last, to date, to join the very exclusive club of manufacturers distinguished by the Poinçon de Genève. And over a million timepieces bear the Poinçon seal!
