The French have their “Made in France,” and the Swiss have theirs: the “Swiss Made,” a label specifically designed to distinguish watches manufactured or assembled in Switzerland. Swiss Made is among the numerous labels and certifications awarded by Swiss organizations to timepieces, such as the COSC “chronometer” designation, the Geneva Seal, or the Fleurier Quality Foundation label. It emphasizes technical quality, innovation, and aesthetic appeal – all while adapting to contemporary trends.
Once Swiss Made, Always Swiss Made
The origins of the Swiss Made label can be traced back to the 18th century. At a time when counterfeits of Swiss timepieces began to emerge, Geneva watchmakers, organized into a guild, proposed certifying the quality of local production by affixing a hallmark to the movements. This initiative directly led, a century later, to the creation of an official “Swiss Made” certification, as competition from American production threatened the Swiss watch industry.
Since its inception, Swiss Made has aimed to provide the Swiss watch industry with the means to protect its expertise and unique characteristics. This need was further amplified by the “quartz crisis” of the 1970s and the influx of products of varying quality from Asia. Consequently, the label was officially defined in 1971 by an Ordinance regulating the use of the word “Swiss” in relation to watches.
This led to strict regulations intended to protect not only Swiss manufacturers but also consumers, who sought assurance regarding product authenticity. Thanks to Swiss Made, Swiss manufacturers were able to reposition their operations, focusing on quality and high-end products – a strategic shift that undoubtedly saved the industry during the 1980s. The national significance of this label is therefore undeniable… though occasionally challenged!
A Controversial Label
Indeed, the Swiss Made label is not immune to criticism and controversy. For years, this prestigious designation was challenged due to outdated criteria that, within the context of globalized production, allowed for ambiguity. It was, in fact, the manufacturers themselves who were the first to voice concerns!
According to the 1971 ordinance, to qualify for this coveted distinction, it was sufficient that:
The watch was assembled in Switzerland,
At least 50% of the value of its movement’s constituent parts were of Swiss origin,
The final inspection was conducted in Switzerland.
Technically, a timepiece primarily composed of lower-quality foreign parts, but with one or two high value-added operations performed in Switzerland, could still claim this distinction… especially considering the cost of certain components manufactured and assembled within the Swiss Confederation.
Swiss Made: a Consolidated Watchmaking Benchmark
For this reason, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry opted to revise the conditions for obtaining the Swiss Made ordinance, thereby enhancing its value. This process, initiated in 2007, came into effect on January 1, 2017. Its objectives were to reinforce the label’s credibility by emphasizing its geographical significance; to address legal loopholes to prevent misuse; and to ensure the highest level of satisfaction for buyers, who, when purchasing a Swiss Made watch, expect to benefit from the full added value promised by Swiss quality standards.
Specifically, to qualify for Swiss Made, a watch must now comprise 60% Swiss value in its entirety, rather than just 50% for its movement alone. This is merely an intermediate step, as this percentage is expected to increase to 80% for mechanical watches in a subsequent phase. Another crucial criterion is that both construction and prototyping must also be carried out within Switzerland.
This reinforcement initiative restores the full value of Swiss Made, fully re-emphasizing the expertise of Swiss watchmakers. Furthermore, it aims to rebuild the bond of trust with consumers, which the label was at risk of eroding.
