Swiss Made

The French have their “made in France,” and the Swiss have theirs: “Swiss Made,” a label specifically designed to distinguish watches manufactured or assembled on Swiss territory. Swiss Made is one of many labels and certifications awarded by Swiss organizations to timepieces, alongside the COSC “chronometer” designation, the Geneva Seal, or the Fondation Qualité Fleurier label. It highlights the technical quality, innovation, and aesthetic appeal of watches—while ensuring it evolves with the times.

Swiss Made once, Swiss Made forever

We must go back to the 18th century to witness the birth of the Swiss Made label. At a time when counterfeits of Swiss timepieces were beginning to appear here and there, Geneva watchmakers, organized into a guild, proposed certifying the quality of local production by affixing a hallmark to movements. This idea would lead directly to the creation, a century later—when competition from American production threatened the Swiss watch industry—of an official “Swiss Made” certification. Thus, since its launch, Swiss Made has aimed to give the Swiss watch industry the means to protect its expertise and distinctive characteristics. This need was reinforced by the “quartz crisis” of the 1970s and the mass arrival from Asia of products of varying quality. This is why the label was officially defined in 1971 by an Ordinance regulating the use of the word “Swiss” in relation to watches. This resulted in strict regulations designed to protect Swiss manufacturers, of course, but also consumers who wished not to be deceived about the merchandise. Thanks to Swiss Made, Swiss manufacturers were able to reposition their business by targeting quality and the high-end market—a strategic shift that certainly saved the industry during the 1980s. The national importance of this label is therefore indisputable… although sometimes contested!

A controversial label

Indeed, Swiss Made is not immune to criticism and controversy. For years, this prestigious label was called into question due to obsolete criteria that, in the context of globalized production, left room for doubt. And it was the manufacturers themselves who were the first to take a stand! According to the 1971 ordinance, to qualify for the coveted certification, it was sufficient that:

• The watch be assembled in Switzerland,
• At least 50% of the value of the components of its movement be Swiss,
• The final inspection be carried out in Switzerland.

Technically, a timepiece consisting mostly of lower-quality foreign parts, but for which one or two high-value-added operations had been performed in Switzerland, could quite legitimately claim this distinction… given the cost of certain components manufactured and assembled in the Swiss Confederation.

Swiss Made, a strengthened watchmaking benchmark

For this reason, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry chose to update the conditions for obtaining Swiss Made certification in order to strengthen its value. This process, launched in 2007, came into force on January 1, 2017. It aimed to consolidate the label’s credibility by giving it its full geographical meaning; to fill a legal void so as to prevent further abuse; and to guarantee the highest level of customer satisfaction, so that when purchasing a Swiss Made watch, buyers receive all the added value promised by Swiss quality standards. Specifically, to qualify for Swiss Made, a watch must now meet a 60% Swiss value requirement in its entirety, rather than 50% for its movement alone—and this is only an intermediate step, since in a second phase, this percentage should be raised to 80% for mechanical watches. Another important criterion: design and prototyping must also be carried out in the country. This strengthening process restores the full value of Swiss Made, once again fully showcasing the expertise of Swiss watchmakers—and in the process, reestablishing the bond of trust with consumers that the label was in danger of losing.