Manufacture: this single word captivates enthusiasts of fine watches. The manufacture is where everything happens, where the miracle occurs – the assembly of the timepiece, its creation ex nihilo. Of all the types of companies that have set out to produce these technological marvels, the watchmaking manufacture is by far the most prestigious, the most recognized… and the most coveted. This is because it alone embodies everything that constitutes the DNA of a high-end timepiece. Without further ado, let us discover this essential part of the watchmaking industry.

An Attempt to Define a Watch Manufacture

In the popular imagination, the watchmaking manufacture is a kind of village of indomitable Gauls whose self-sufficiency allows it to resist successive Roman invasions. In other words, a manufacture would (theoretically) be a firm that creates its clocks and watches from start to finish, from design to production, without resorting to any external assistance, indifferent to the outside world.

However, if this definition were applied stricto sensu, few candidates would manage to merit the supreme title. For a watch manufacture to be truly considered as such, it would need to own its own raw material mines, then design and assemble its parts from A to Z (escapement, hairspring, case, etc.), without ever buying the slightest screw from a supplier, without ever having the smallest hand manufactured by a subcontractor.

Therefore, a watchmaking manufacture, in its more accessible form, is a company that designs a major part of its components itself, and notably, at a minimum, the entire movement of the watch or clock; then ensures its assembly. This does not prevent it from ordering a particular component from a specialized company. It’s the same difference that exists between a quality restaurateur and a fast food establishment: the former will prepare their own fine dishes, without necessarily growing their own salad in their garden. The same applies to the watchmaking manufacture in its most “democratic” definition.

The Watchmaking Manufacture, Epicenter of the Watch World

Nevertheless, this democratization makes sense – because the idea of a “watchmaking manufacture” generates a certain prestige and adds value to brands that can claim it. In an increasingly open world, where the progress of globalization tends to blur the notions of product origin and quality, the manufacture is easily elevated to the rank of a qualitative label: a firm that produces its own watches internally, and ensures their proper production from start to finish, can thus rely on this added value to optimize its marketing and reach a discerning audience. Which, most often, means: selling watches at a higher price.

Indeed, the watch manufacture has become the epicenter of the horological upheaval that affected the planet a few decades ago. From the 2000s onwards, there was indeed a gold rush among many market players to obtain this appellation synonymous with prestige – companies that once merely cased pre-existing movements, and which have transformed over time into complete watchmaking manufactures.

This trend coincides with the compartmentalization of the watch market into two distinct entities: on one side, mass-market production, such as quartz watches, which became dominant from the 1970s. And on the other, timepieces evolving in the high-end and luxury segments, mechanical, and therefore produced by watch manufactures. These models are created for a select clientele, capable of spending several thousand, or even tens of thousands of euros.

The Dual Meaning of “Manufacture”

That is why, in the early years of the new millennium, many brands were determined to transform themselves into manufactures, often by acquiring, to bring under their banner, the suppliers and subcontractors they had previously relied upon – this was the case for Breguet, Breitling, Omega, or Rolex, for example. Others started from scratch, through sheer effort and meticulous craftsmanship.

However, let us not be mistaken: the principle of watchmaking manufacture is not exclusive to luxury timepieces, nor is the production of high-end models necessarily linked to this notion. The Japanese company Seiko, which offers affordable mass-market products, is a watch manufacture in the strict sense (it has adopted a vertical model that allows it to be totally independent); while a major name such as Vacheron Constantin, one of the most luxurious and oldest active brands, sources its movements from other manufacturers.

As we can see: the notion is volatile. But the expression “watchmaking manufacture” continues to captivate enthusiasts of fine watches – and likely for a very long time to come.